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Steamed Date Buns

You won't find this in tourist brochures, but Shanxi is one of the sweetest spots in China. The reason is dates, the fruity kind. Besides using them in the obvious snacks and desserts, local chefs braise dates and add them to soups and other dishes. Try a popular date delectable: mixed in with steamed buns. Now that's my idea of a perfectly sweet date.

Makes 12 buns

12 dried Chinese red dates
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 ½ teaspoons dried yeast
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, sifted
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable shortening, melted
5 tablespoons canned red bean paste

Icing
½ cup sweetened condensed milk
3 tablespoons confectioners' sugar

In a medium bowl, soak the dates in warm water to cover until softened, about 30 minutes. Drain and pick through and discard any seeds. Mince the dates and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the sugar, yeast, and ¾ cup warm water, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Set aside in a warm place until the mixture is foamy on top, about 10 minutes. Add the flour and lard and stir with a wooden spoon until a loose dough forms. Add the dates and knead until evenly distributed. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Transfer the dough to a large clean bowl, cover, and set aside in a warm place to let rise until doubled in size, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the red bean paste and 2 tablespoons water in a bowl and mix to a smooth, spreadable paste. Set aside.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and roll into a 10-inch by 14-inch rectangle. Turn the dough so that the short end of the dough is facing you. Spread the bean paste over the surface of the dough, leaving a 1½-inch border of dough. Lift the edge of the dough closest to you and roll the dough up and over the filling, continuing to roll until you reach the end. Pinch the seam shut.

Place roll, seam side down, on a clean work surface. Using a sharp knife, cut roll in half, then cut each half in half again to make 4 equal pieces. Cut each of the four pieces into 3 equal-sized rolls, making 12 rolls in all.

Line 2 steamer baskets with parchment paper, cut to fit. Lightly oil the parchment paper. Arrange six of the rolls, barely touching, in each prepared basket. Cover each basket with the lid and set aside in a warm place until the rolls double in size, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Prepare a wok for steaming (see instructions page tk). Stack the steamers and place over simmering water. Steam, covered, until the buns are light and fluffy, 10 to 15 minutes.

To make the icing, combine the condensed milk and powdered sugar in a bowl.

Drizzle the icing over the buns and serve warm.